Celebrating the new year in Almaty Part 1: Ded Moroz and Snegurochka

To the best of my knowledge, Christmas is not a holiday in Kazakhstan.  While there may be some families that celebrate something on December 25th, the big holiday here is the new year.  In celebrating the new year, many familiar symbols arise.  One example is the tradition of gift giving at the new year by Ded Moroz (father frost) and his grand daughter Snegurochka.  As you can see from the picture at the top of this post, they fly in a troika (a sleigh pulled by three horses) and you can see a yolka in the back.  Families and schools will sometimes hire a company to provide a Ded Moroz and Snegurochka.  Snegurochka will lead a good time with games and dancing which eventually culminates in the arrival of Ded Moroz and the dissemination of gifts (purchased by the family, of course).  I have to say that, from what I've seen, this culture has the party-games thing down.  Everyone (from toddlers to grown-ups) participates and everyone has a good time.

Another similarity is the Yolka - a fir tree decorated to celebrate the new year which strongly resembles our Christmas Tree:  "In Russia they only started decorating fir trees in 1700. Back then it symbolized New Year, not Christmas. Czar Peter the Great imported the tradition of from Europe and also moved New Year celebrations from September 1 to January 1.  Meaning that in 1700 we Russians celebrated New Year twice and both times with fir trees!" click here for more about this tradition.

Friday Photo: Snow Removal

I came across this scene last week and thought I would share:

If you can't quite make out what is happening, a crew of 8 is loosening the snow at the side of the road.  This big machine slowly follows them scooping up the loose snow and loading it conveyor belt style into the back of the huge dump truck.

That is how it is done.

Weather Report: December 2011

I was just outside and discovered it to be the third REALLY cold day in a row, so I was curious as to exactly how cold it is.  Here is the report as recorded by timeanddate.com

December 16: around 20F, -7C
December 17: around 21F, -6C
December 18: around 20F, -7C
December 19 (right now): 1F, -17C

Luckily, it looks like we are going to thaw out a bit:

December 20: High of 14F,  -10C
December 21: High of 17F, -8C
December 22: High of 24F, -4C

By Friday it will be above freezing and sunny.  I can't wait to see the mountains!!!!

Independence Day

On December 16th, 1986 there was a large protest near what is now the new republic square.  The protest was about the appointment of a Russian instead of a Kazakh to the post of General Secretary of the Communist Party of Kazakhstan.  Needless to say, the authorities did not look kindly on the protesters (they never do) and many people were killed and injured in the confrontation that resulted.  It is in honor of this event that Kazakhstan celebrates its independence on December 16th.

To celebrate the occasion of the 20th anniversary of Kazakhstan's independence, I bring you pictures of the monument at the new square and a brief retelling of Kazakhstan's historic relationship with Russia as I understand, or perhaps more accurately, fail to understand it.

Legal disclaimer: I do not make any claims on the following information being fact.

Once upon a time (in the 17th century to be slightly more precise) there were a group of people living in the seven rivers region of central Asia (what is now south east Kazakhstan).  This was actually three groups of people ruled by separate leaders called Khans, but every once in a while they would agree on something and be one group of people ruled by one person - also called a Khan.

To the east of these people, were some other people (the Zunghars) who were gradually moving West. To the west and north of these people were some more people (the Russian Cossacks) who were gradually moving south and east.  If you have ever played risk, you understand the predicament the three Khanates found themselves in.  Ultimately, one by one, the three Khanates sought protection from the Russian Cossacks, and histories of the two states have been intertwined ever since.

Now,  I could try and explain the complicated politics that lead to Kazakhstan's independence in 1991, but honestly it reads like a Dostoevsky novel with dozens of players and hundreds incomprehensible plot twists.  The short version is that there was a demonstration in Almaty which was followed by some political posturing.  Then a few years later there were a couple of attempted coups on other leaders in other countries.  I'm not sure how that part relates to Kazakhstan's independence, but apparently it does.  Then, apparently, everything in Moscow fell apart and so Kazakhstan became independent.

While the events leading to Independence are apparently only comprehensible to political scientists and secret agencies, today people in Kazakhstan are proud of their independence.  Flags, flowers, and festive greetings are the rule on this four-day weekend.  So hey, bring on the party and с днем конституции!

Movie Monday: The NEW Almaty Metro

First of all, I am aware that it is, in fact, Friday (not Monday), but since we had "Photo Friday" on Monday a while back, I feel that it is only fitting that we have "Movie Monday" on Friday.  Besides, this was way too cool to not post right away.  Also, just because this post is about the NEW Almaty Metro does not mean that there was ever an OLD Almaty Metro.  The NEW is capitalized for emphasis because it is THAT cool!!!!!

Now down to business.  The Almaty Metro opened just a few weeks ago and today was the first chance I had to go down and take a ride.  The price for a ride is 80 Tenge.  You can purchase a yellow plastic token at the Kacca (ticket window) or, you can go to a kiosk and invest in a smart card to wave in front of the machine. During the day, trains run at 10 - 13 minute intervals.  There are no benches in the stations, so be prepared to stand while you wait.

Each station has a different theme relating to it's name and the interiors are worth seeing.  Happy Friday everyone, enjoy the video!

Almaty Weather

Before I came, many of my friends asked me what kind of weather I was expecting in Almaty.  Since it is mostly just my friends who read this blog (hi guys)  I thought that perhaps it was time for an update.  Since about the 2nd half of October I have come to expect some snow about once a week.  Usually it is only an inch or two a accumulation - enough to make the sidewalks icy.  It is cold, but not unbearable.  Most days I don't feel like I need gloves or a scarf, but I can feel that changing.

The last couple of weeks have been very foggy.  I  don't often get to see the mountains any more (this is wreaking havoc on the mountain time lapse I am working on), just a sea of white.

So that's the weather report.  Not much else to report except that photos of the new years decorations will be coming soon.

Friday Photo: Abai

I live one block up from one of the main east-west avenues through town.  This street is called Abai after the famous late nineteenth century Kazakh poet and philosopher (same guy the opera house is named after).  At the end of Abai (up the hill from Panfilov Park and the green market) you can find this statue of the revered folk hero.  The statues here are all impressive. This one is rather huge.  What you cant see is a seven foot construction fence below the bottom of the picture.  I rather like that Abai looks down the street named after him.