Happy Holidays!

In honor of the celebrations of Christmas and the New Year, here is a short clip from Almaty's Christmas tree lighting party a few weeks ago.

Merry Christmas everyone and a very happy New Year!

Tidbit Tuesday: Gypsy Taxis for Beginners

By way of preface, this is a story that I've been working on for a while, it has appeared elsewhere (in a slightly altered form), but this is where it belongs.

Catching a ride in a gypsy taxi in Almaty, Kazakhstan is a bit like hitchhiking, you stand on the side of the road, face the oncoming cars traveling in the direction you want to go, and stick your right arm out with your flat palm pointing slightly down. When a driver stops, quickly state your destination (usually in the form of a pair of intersecting streets) and the amount of money you wish to pay (you can indicate price with fingers – or learn the hundreds in Russian).  If the driver nods, you hop in; if not, you try again.  When it is time to get out, you can say “zdyes (здесь)” which means ‘here’ or simply gesture to the place where you would like to stop.

Some people feel really uncomfortable with Gypsy Taxis but I have not had a bad experience in one.  Aside from the inevitable (and for the most part, innocent) flirtation when a driver finds out you are single, the experience is almost always entertaining and a really great place to practice Russian.

A Typical Ride

I slowly walk backwards down Furmanova toward Satpaeva my arm outstretched. Several waves of nice cars have already sped by without so much as a glance in my direction.  I can usually tell by the condition of the car if the driver might stop – the nicer the car, the less likely it is to stop. This isn’t always true of course.  I was once given a ride by the head of a computer firm.  She told me that sometimes she just likes the company on her commute.

A beat-up blue van with right-hand steering pulls out of the alley beside me.
“Where to?” The driver asks.  “Shalapina-Pravda,” I say, adding “700” almost as an afterthought.  700 Tenge is a lot to pay for an in-town ride, but I’ve come to a comfortable system for determining my number:  I know that 500 Tenge will get me to and from almost anywhere so if I am feeling impatient, I offer more.  If I am short on cash, I offer less.  Today I am feeling particularly impatient.
The driver indicates the passenger seat with a nod of his head.

I wrestle with the seat-belt as we turn into the busy Furmanova traffic.  A bit of the belt has folded and is stuck in the plastic guide above my shoulder.
“Give it to me,” the driver says as slows to a stop at the intersection.  I hand him the belt and he gives it a firm tug, pulling the fold free.
“Thanks,” I say, and then looking to the clasp, realize it is broken and won’t work anyways.
"Don't worry" he says.  "I'm security." With that statement he casually tosses a blue document holder onto the dashboard.  I take this to mean that any trouble we might have with the traffic police over me not wearing a seat-belt will quickly be settled with the display of the documents inside the sky blue cover.

The driver has a round, brown face with short dark hair and long laugh lines radiating from the corners of his eyes. His blue jeans and black nylon jacket look almost as well worn as his beat up van. “Where are you from?”  He asks me.
“I’m from America” I answer.  “Where are you from?”
I realize that the question sounds ridiculous and possibly even rude, but he answers with a chuckle “I’m from here.”
“From Almaty?” I ask.
“No," he replies.  "From Taldy-Kurgan.” I feel a certain smug justification at asking.  Many people in Almaty are actually from other cities in Kazakhstan, and getting them to talk about home is one way to keep the conversation away from marriage and children.
“I heard that Taldy-Kurgan is a beautiful city.”
“Yes, very beautiful.  Mountains, nature…Have you been there?”
“No, but I would like to go.”
“Call me if you want to go,” he offers.

As our conversation falters, I turn my attention to the long rows of brown and grey communist-era buildings peeking from behind the row of birch and elm trees that line Satpaeva.  Every now and again we pass blue or yellow signs that read “notary” or “Pharmacy” and, less frequently, “store.”  The car front of us abruptly pulls to the right to pick up a fare and we swerve to avoid a collision.

“Are there many cars in America?” the driver asks, his right hand resting lazily on the knob fixed to the steering wheel.
“Yes, lots of cars, but not so many buses, or taxis.  In Almaty there are lots of cars and taxis, and lots of buses, and a good metro.” I can only hope that in spite of my poor Russian I’ve managed to communicate that Almaty’s hodge-podge but serviceable transit network is one of the things I admire most about the city.
“Yes, but it’s dirty.”  The man replies.
“Yes, the air is very dirty.”  I agree glancing at the mountains that look pale and faded behind the brown haze.
“I was in Moscow for two years.  The air there was dirtier.”
“Really?!” I ask incredulously.
“Really” the driver answers.
“Why were you in Moscow?” I ask.
“For work” he answers.

Just ahead of us, I see the bright red sign for the Kimex shoe store at the corner of my intersection, so I pull a folded blue 500 Tenge note out of my pocket and fish for the 100 Tenge coins in my coin purse.  “Here please." The driver pulls over to the sidewalk. “Thank you very much” I say as I hand him the money.  “I’ll call you when I go to Taldy-Kurgan.”

Tidbit Tuesday: Things you learn on a walk in Almaty

One of the fun things about Almaty is the seemingly random statues and memorials you come across on otherwise normal street corners.  Some monuments, like the statue of Lenin that was moved to an obscure back alley behind family park, are holdovers from the Soviet era, moved to less prominent spots in the city.  Others are new symbols of a new Kazakhstan.   Every once in a while, usually while I am on an aimless ramble around town, I will come across a monument that somehow seems unique in this place.

kids playing next to the Ghandi statue in Almaty, Kazakhstan

In October while I was walking down Gagarina Park collecting photos of the golden leaves,  I came upon the Ghandi Statue.  I had heard of this statue before (like the Beatles Statue on Kek Tobe, it is somewhat legendary among my friends), but to see Ghandi there in the middle of Almaty (looking rather cold in the brisk Autumn air, I might add) was a very different experience.

Monument to Chinese composer Xian Xinghai

Yesterday as I was walking to my Russian lesson in the positively frigid winter air, I came across monument to a Chinese Composer.  Yes, there is a monument to the early 20th century composer Xian Xinghai on the corner of ул. Си Синхай (Si Sinxai Street) and Gagarina.   It turns out that this Chinese composer (his most famous work is the Yellow River Cantata) spent a short time here in Almaty while on his way from Moscow back to China.  There is, of course, a lot more to the story than that and it makes for an interesting read that ends tragically (as do so many composers' lives) so hopefully I've convinced you to look him up.

At any rate, I'm off to Istanbul tomorrow so hold on to your horses for a flood of new pictures and posts.

Movie Monday: A Few More Musical Moments

This weekend was the annual outdoor musical celebration known as the Parade of Orchestras (some translations say 'Bands') and I spent two late nights at the feet of Abay (beneath his statue, that is) enjoying some good old-fashioned outdoor musical entertainment.
Friday night's performance featured performances by MEZZO (a vocal quartet that was on Kazakhstan's X factor last year) and by the tenor Alessandro Safina who was both courageous (singing through feedback) and gracious (thanking the audience in multiple languages and even singing a song in Kazakh).  The orchestra also played popular classics like Arutiunian's Trumpet Concerto and scenes from Khachaturian's Ballet 'Spartacus.'

So for movie Monday I would like to introduce you to two of the musical discoveries I made this weekend: the vocal quartet MEZZO,

and the Kazakh group Ulytau who weren't there but who my friend wished were (this is pretty cool - check out the dombra!)

Happy Monday everyone!

Tidbit Tuesday: The Pet Bazaar

My impression of those fortunate enough to call this fair city their home is that they love their pets.  People who keep dogs, for example, will have the paperwork stating pedigree, expensive looking leashes, and lush doggie beds.  These dog lovers haunt Gagarina park in the wee dark hours of the morning along with the odd jogger and the still-up love-birds.

More elusive, though no less numerous, are the cat owners who betray their existence only by the evidence that their numbers are large enough to make it worthwhile for our local grocery to stock kitty litter and cat food.  I find, however, that I digress.

The pet bazaar (as it is called by us English-speaking outsiders) is tucked in behind some shops across the street from the main bus station in the most elusive way.  It is possible to drive by that corner a hundred times and not know it was there unless someone were to point and say to you: "behind those little shops there is a pet Bazaar" and even then, you might not believe them.

For an Almaty bazaar, the pet bazaar is small.  A dozen or so rows of stalls under a tin roof covering carry birds, cages, kittens, aquariums, fish, squirrels, pupies in cages and play-pens, and numerous other critters whose names I never learned in Kindergarten.  Beyond the stalls are rows of cars with their trunks open to show litters of puppies or kittens (and sometimes both) inside.  Most vendors have pictures and signs stating what breed they are selling.  One can find several varieties of spaniel, German Shepherds, Pugs, Chihuahuas, Siberian Huskies, and miniature just-about-anything-you-want.

The pet bazaar is not for the faint of heart, or for any person recently exposed to Brian - "Master Sprawler Of The Bronx" who convinces all who lay eyes on his glorious sprawl that they must get a cat. It takes every ounce of will power to walk out of the labyrinth of cuddly temptation empty-handed and one cannot be distracted by previous experiences with lovable fluff.  For those of you concerned with whether I succumbed, have no fear: I employed the "I really should do some research before getting a pet" charm to ward off temptation.

Friday Photo: A truck

I found this fantastic monument on my wanderings during spring break.  It is about one block west of the last metro stop on Raimbek.  The inscription below this truck reads something like: Automobile GAZ-AA, symbol of labor and glory of the automobile veterans.  I am not entirely sure who these veterans are, but I thought the truck was pretty fantastic so it won a spot on photo Friday.

Friday Photo: Nauryz Celebrations

Nauryz, is the second longest holiday in the Kazakh Calendar (New Year being the longest) with a full three days off from work.  It is an ancient Persian holiday that celebrates the rebirth and renewal of spring and, according to Guek-Cheng Pang in his book "Kazakhstan", the symbolic victory of good over evil .  The primary symbol of this holiday is a young woman who is often (but not always) dressed in a white dress with a cone hat.

The photo this week is of a poster that is commonly found around town, and of the giant Nauryz sign and lady outside of the Mega Mall in Almaty.  For more reading on the Nauryz celebration, click HERE.

P.S. You might also notice the instrument at the top of the poster.  This is a kind of  Kobyz (see earlier post on musical instruments).  It is also a similar shape to the dipper used to serve the traditional drink.

Sunday Coffee Club: Moka Loka

This morning's quest for good coffee came on the heals of a trip to the Almaty-2 train station to try and book tickets to Astana for later this week.  The Ticket buying excursion was a success (despite the jack-hammer in operation as I tried to communicate with the ticket woman.  I am not sure what exactly I am riding on as the ticket seems cheap even for 3rd class, but I guess I will find out on Thursday.

This week's coffee club meeting took place at Moka-Loka, a small coffee shop located at 106 Zhibek Zholy right across from TSUM.

I found the shop off Zhibek Zholy through an unobtrusive - barely marked door, down a short, narrow corridor, and to the right through a door marked only "push."

The coffee shop was pleasant and comfortable with a coffee bar on one side and booths lining the windows that look out to the pedestrian street.  The coffee was  fantastic, though perhaps not as interesting as the brew at Bisqvit, and while the food was not exceptional, my crepes with chocolate sauce were quite tasty.  The service was fast and friendly and I was quite pleased that even though the staff spoke some English, they allowed me to speak in Russian, and responded in Russian. In general I found the establishment to be pleasant, friendly, and reasonably priced (the whole meal cost less than 800 tg or about $5.00).

At long last: a little Hockey and a lot of messy, wet spring

Here in Kazakhstan, March 1st is celebrated as the first day of spring.  While it may seem a little odd to say "happy first day of spring" while there is snow falling outside, it does feel like spring.  On March 2nd the great thaw began.  Temperatures rose high enough to turn the icy sidewalks into icy sidewalks now riddled with deep puddles the size of cars (don't worry, I'm getting to the hockey).  While the warmer weather is welcome, navigating the resulting labyrinth of icy ridges can prove to be an adventure on the best day.

Last Monday was exhausting.  It began with me slipping, first thing in the morning, into the thick layer of dirty slush that covered the access road to my building.  When I returned home from work, I was at the end of my rope and was absolutely determined to go find the hockey game between the Astana Barys and the Almaty HC.

So, I set off into the grey dusk and gingerly picked my way around pothole sized puddles that somehow reminded me of a frigid version of the Dead Marshes from Lord of the Rings.  I was within a half block of my bus stop when I slipped off the narrow ridge of ice I was traversing into an immense puddle that swallowed my whole foot and then some.  I yanked my foot out of the icy water and somehow finished crossing to the other side.  My shoes were filled with icy water.  I leaned on a fence as I emptied them and decided (against my better judgement) to go on.  I was tired of being sensible.  My bus decided, mid route, to take an unplanned detour through the narrow back alleys of Almaty and so I found myself walking the last kilometer to the intersection where the sports arena was.

As I stood in front of the sports' center I realized that I really didn't know if there was a hockey game inside this building or not.  I knew it was a sports center, and I knew it was one of two possible sports centers for the game and so, I realized that it was possible that I would walk in to find any number of events in progress.  Additionally, I  heard from a friend that the games were free, but one can never be sure about these things in Almaty, and so it also occurred to me that if the game was not free I would have to negotiate ticket buying with a brain that was partially frozen and that desperately wanted sleep.

Gandalf's advice to Merry was "if in doubt...always follow your nose," and while generally I find that to be good advice, I often find that, if at all possible, it is far better to follow other people who know what they are doing. So I spotted some people who were going inside (and looked like they knew what they were doing) and casually followed them up the ramp into the building. We went past some apparently un-manned metal detectors and turn-stiles, past the empty and dark coat-check rooms and into the arena where, to my relief, I found an ice rink complete with zamboni and choose-your-own seating.  So I chose a seat with a good view of the action and proceeded to enjoy a fun (if a bit rough) game of ice hockey forgetting my cold feet in their wet socks even before the end of the national anthem.



The crowd was small but spirited.  The sound of drums, horns, hand clappers and other noise makers filled the arena constantly. The game was so fun that I went again the next night when we enjoyed the spectacle of three refs trying to fix the hole they drill (with a battery operated power drill) to secure the goals.  So, as promised, here are pics.  Oh and the best part?  It was completely free.  Can't beat free hockey.

And this concludes the somewhat long story of how I finally got to a hockey game in Almaty.

P.S:  Oh and thanks to IbragimKZ for this link to video footage of the Beybarys/HC Almaty Game that ended the HC Almaty season. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxHeMTQjKNc

Movie Monday: Ice Skating at Medeo

Saturday I finally got up to medeo to go ice skating.  It was fantastic. In the places where the ice was smooth it was very fast.  This movie is not my best, but hopefully a hockey post later this week will make up for it.

Movie Monday: A snowy drive on a February Morning

I filmed this on the ride to work last week on a day when we had more than a foot of snow.  I don't mind the snow and the cold, but I am definitely ready to say goodbye to the grey months.

Friday Photo: A New Normal

I seem to remember a time when trees had leaves and when the sidewalks weren't covered in 10 layers of snow and sand (they sand here, rather than shovel).  I vaguely recall how the bushes looked without their snowy garlands.  I remember when the cold was new and refreshing and when the extra time it took to add several extra layers was annoying.  Now it all looks so normal: the slush, the ubiquitous white ground cover, and the ever grey skies.  I thought I would get sick of it but instead, winter has established itself as a semi-permanent state and I find that I don't, in fact, mind at all.

Movie Monday: Ice skating and other winter fun

When I moved to Almaty there were a few things I wanted to learn.  Russian, of course, was one.  Ice Skating was another.  So I have been ice skating all of three times and finally bought a pair of cheap skates this weekend.  They are pink - not my favorite color, but on the bright side, they match my pink flyers scarf which I always wear skating.

There are ice rinks in several spots around town.  There is a good sized rink in the Mega shopping center and a small rink in the Ramstore on Furmanova. There is also a good sized rink up the hill on Dostyk at the Luxor complex (pictured).

During the winter, you can also find a number of outdoor rinks. This weekend I tried out an outdoor rink behind the children's theater on Shalapina.  It was the day after a snow so the ice still had powder on top.   The surface was a bit rough but I had a great time.  It was fun to be outside under a blue sky trying out the moves I learned on youtube.

For those of you interested in the cost, I haven't been skating at Mega, but Luxor charges 1000 tenge for 1 hour of skating and 500 for skate rental.  They also offer lessons for 2000 tenge.  The outdoor rink charged 700 tenge for unlimited skate time.

Sunday Coffee Club: Bisqvit

According to a review on the Lonely Planet website, Bisqvit is "marginally smarter than Coffeedelia, with arguably the best coffee in town."  I have read the "best coffee in town" claim elsewhere and being a confirmed coffaphile, I was excited to try this place out.  So this morning I set out in the snow to meet Mr. Fielding, Dr. Aziz, Mrs. Moore, and Miss Quested at Bisqvit.

Located just west of the intersection of Dostyk and Shevchenko, Bisqvit has a nice atmosphere.  Dark wooden counters, booths with plush couches and wicker chairs stained dark brown contrast with the grey stone tile floor to give the establishment a sense of permanence.  There was little or no music from the radio and at 10:00 am I was one of only a few customers.  I liked the quiet and somewhat somber ambiance - it provided the perfect place to read my book.

The menu is quite extensive with options for breakfast, lunch and dinner and the prices are similar to those of other coffee shops in town.  I didn't try any of the food, but I must admit that my Americano was skillfully made and had a woodier flavor than other roasts I have tried here in Almaty.  While I hesitate to crown the coffee at Bisqvit as "the best in town," I will freely own that it was well worth the snowy pilgrimage.

Friday Photo: Something random and fun

Don't ask me why.  I don't know and would just sing Woodie Guthrie at you. Nevertheless, it makes me very, very happy.  Happy Friday everyone!!!!

Sunday Coffee Club: CoffeeDelia

Allow me to clarify: there is no actual organization in Almaty called the Sunday Coffee Club.  This is really just the name I give to the tradition I have just started of trying out a new coffee shop each Sunday.  So far the members are me and E.M. Forster via "A Passage to India."

This morning's meeting took place at a shop called CoffeeDelia.  There are two locations for this coffee shop.  One is on Zheltoksan and Kabenbai Batyr, the other is across Furmanova from the Opera Theater about halfway down the block on Kabenbai Batyr.  I went to the location across from the Opera.

CofeeDelia has a definite modern vibe.  Plain white dishes, and hard lines in the shop's orange, white, and black color scheme give off a certain Euro-cafe feeling of modern sophistication.   Additionally, light instrumental techno muzak plays constantly eventually giving me the somewhat surreal feeling of living in a 'made-for-airlines' tourism commercial.  A mix of traditional and trendy modern seating caters to a variety of customers.  I noticed that they even had a hi-chair available for toddlers.  It might seem odd to point that out, but many places in Almaty don't have child-seating.  CoffeeDelia also boasts free wi-fi which is a definite bonus.

In addition to coffee, CoffeeDelia serves limited Breakfast, Lunch, and dinner menus and also has alcoholic beverages available. The prices are somewhat reasonable  with most meals in the $8-$15 range.  I ordered a "jumbo" Americano (the closest they come to drip coffee here) and a Cheese Croissant and paid about $6.00 for the meal.  The staff were exceptionally friendly and, while the atmosphere was just a bit too upbeat for my Sunday blahs, I still managed to enjoy my breakfast and my book.

Friday Photo: Panfilov Park in the Winter

Cathedral of the Holy Ascension

Apparently this winter has been unusually cold.  Everyone (not just us gringos) complains about the cold.  Last week we suffered a cold snap that had us in the - Fahrenheit range for days.  It was Cold (with a capital C).  On the bright side, fresh snow yesterday means a day or two of great skiing in the mountains...and the cold means there are plenty of outdoor ice-rinks to enjoy (more on that later).  So in honor of the winter weather, here are several pictures of Panfilov Park in the winter.  As you can see, it is still beautiful.

Memorial to the Heroes
with a public works employee cleaning off the winter
dust (the flame is still burning)

If it wasn't for the path, I might mistake this for Narnia

Woods in the park

Monday's Musical Extravaganza

Yes, there will be a movie:

...but wait! Today's post is not about that, it is about stuff I learned on my trip to the museum for musical instruments in Almaty.

The Museum of Musical instruments.  Yes, this is really it.  No, it isn't a war museum...I promise.

The museum is located near the memorial to the heroes of the Great Patriotic War in Panfilov park.  I believe that it is open every day except for Tuesday and admission is just 200 Tenge (about $1.30). The exhibition rooms are well laid out and the instruments are displayed beautifully.  All of the text is in Russian and Kazakh, so do your research first if you don't speak one of those languages pretty fluently.  The bulk of the exhibit covers instruments from Kazakhstan, however there are several rooms dedicated to instruments from other countries in Central Asia and from as far off as India, Africa, East Asia, and Western Europe.  As an added bonus, for 200 Tenge extra, you can enjoy a demonstration of the Dombra, Kobyz, and the mongolian sybyzgy jar flute in a small recital hall that is shaped and decorated like a large Yurt.

One of the exhibition rooms

There are several string instruments commonly found in Kazakhstan.  The most famous is the Dombra (see earlier posts for a demonstration).  The Dombra is lute-like in shape, but with only two strings and significantly smaller.  Also worth noting is is a very short bridge and a small resonating hole.  There is a revival of this instrument at the moment and it is not uncommon to see young people carrying them. There was one Dombra in the museum that had strings on both sides of the body.  I am still trying to imagine someone playing both sides at once.

Equally famous, if slightly less popular, is a string instrument called the Kobyz.  The Kobyz has between two and four strings (depending on when and where it was made) and has a body shaped like hollowed out gourds.  Unlike the Dombra, the Kobyz is a bowed instrument with no frets and an off center tail piece. According to legend playing the Kobyz "maintains the balance between the courses of Life and Death on earth."  It is an instrument that is played by Shaman and supposedly helps guard against premature death (for more about this legend and others connected with instruments of Kazakhstan, click here).  Variations on the Kobyz have hide or wood stretched across the resonating body.

There is also a common bell instrument called an Acatayak.  You will see this in many shapes, from the ends of a staff, to a hand held hammer fashioned in the shape of a horse's head. This is another instrument used by Shaman in healing ceremonies.

A cool map detailing the "where" of all of the Kazakh instruments displayed in the museum

Friday Photo: The Central State Museum of The Republic of Kazakhstan

The Central State Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan is located on Furmanova just above Satpayeva street.  The main hall in the museum is worth seeing even if you don't go into any of the exhibit rooms.  The hall is enormous and grandiose impressing the visitor with the scale alone.  It, like many buildings in Kazakh Architecture, is modeled after the inside of a yurt right down to the central skylight.  This hall often plays host to the semiannual Central Asian Craft Fair (pictured below).

Admission to the four exhibit rooms costs only 100 Tenge.  The exhibit room downstairs features a geological exhibit and an exhibit of the early history of Kazakhstan.  This section includes archaeological artifacts and some impressive recreations of various ancient sites around Kazakhstan. Many of the captions and explanations in this section of the museum are also in English.

In the upper part of the museum are exhibits that chronicle the actions of Khazakh soldiers during the "Great Patriotic War" (the Second World War), a series of exhibits that celebrate the many ethnicities that call Kazakhstan home (including an impressive display of traditional clothing) and the  achievements of the Independent State of Kazakhstan.  There is also a fantastic collection of Abay's original manuscripts and personal effects.

 For anyone planning a visit, the museum is open from 9:30am - 5:30 pm everyday except for Tuesday.

Celebrating the New Year in Almaty Part 3: Lights

The usual post sequence is on vacation this week (along with the rest of Almaty).  Instead I bring you the final installment of the New Year's sequence which includes some pictures of the lights and decorations around town.