Sunday Story: When we didn't see Khan Tengri

Khan Tengri is a 7010 meter (almost 28,000 ft) mountain peak situated on the Kazakhstan/China/Kyrgyzstan border.  It is the second tallest peak in the Tien Shan range (the mountains I see from my window are part of the same range), so one can understand why the mountain might generate some excitement.  This weekend a bunch of us went to see the mountain.


View Larger Map

Before you get jealous (if you are the type to get jealous about the size of a mountain), when I say "see" you must understand that our intention was not to get close to the mountain or to climb a bit of it; our intention was simply to drive east until we could see it, and maybe to hike part way up some hills to get a better view.  Besides, as the title of this little story implies, we didn't actually get to see it. If you want to know more than that, you will just have to keep reading.

We left Almaty early Friday evening hoping to get as far as we could get before the sun set.  We sped eastward as fast as traffic and the law would allow along the birch and cottonwood lined A351 "Kuljinsky track"stopping only for a quick bite for dinner at the little market town of Baseit.  Ten kilometers beyond Baseit, the trees that lined the road to that point suddenly gave way to plains covered in grass and fragrant sagebrush.  As the sun sank at our backs we began scouting for a place to sleep for the night.  We found a dirt track that led toward the nearby hills, and followed it until we found a decent spot to camp for the evening.  Friday we slept under a full moon, bathed in the thick aroma of the sage covered ground.

The next morning I woke shortly before dawn with the chirping of the birds and went for a sunrise hike up some of the hills near our camp.  From the hills I could see the red hills just across the green sage-filled valley where we camped.

A sharp shout drew my attention back to the camp, where I saw a horseman approaching the tents and shouting a greeting.  I took this as my cue to begin heading back toward the camp where we breakfasted to tales of how the drunk cowboy who wanted vodka and couldn't stay on his horse delivered the morning wake-up call.

The southern end of Charyn Canyon

We packed camp and continued eastward.  We wound our way through a deep gorge with spring greenery creeping up through the steep red walls.  We drove across the top of the Charyn Canyon that hides the Ili River as it winds its way westward. We drovethrough green valleys and gentle mountain, and a seemingly endless string of little villages with hobbled donkeys and little calves grazing beside small, white, Cossak-style tin-roofed houses: Kegen, Tasashi, Sarizhaz, Kainar, Tekes, before we finally reached Narinkol, the little village at the Chinese border.

A house near Narinkol

Me (with China in the Background)

At Narinkol, we turned south on a little road that while paved, was so riddled with potholes that we careened down the street weaving from side to side in an effort to keep our automobile intact.  Across the river we could see the occasional glimpse of the fence that marks the chinese border.  Then suddenly the fence crossed the river and the boarder was just a few short steps away.  It isn't everyday that one finds oneself on a remote border with China, so naturally, we stopped for pictures.

More China

After driving along the border for a couple of kilometers, we turned westward on a steep dirt track that led up into the mountains.   We stopped once we reached a small, white ranch house with a relatively flat pasture bordered by a lively brook.  This scene would ultimately be our camp site for the night, but not before we walked up the road for two more kilometers to see the guest cabins and yurts that are available to rent for the night.

The first ranch house boasted a cabin that could sleep eleven, a yurt that sleeps three more, a small sauna that can hold up to 4 people at a time, and a little wooden dipping pool fed by a constant supply of diverted brook water. The top ranch house had two guest yurts and a nice cabin, but there was a party already in progress.  According to our guide, the hike to the view point to see Khan Tengri is another two hour hike from the top ranch house.  

We set up our camp in the first meadow in a light drizzle.  The cows came home as we huffed and puffed at the damp wood in our fire pit in an effort to get some kind of blaze going in the rain.  Then we sat around the fire, making dinner slowly and telling stories and the mountain air cooled in the evening and the rain slowly stopped.  

We would wake up to fresh snow on the peaks, and a grey morning that still obscured our objectiv, Khan Tengri, from view.  Sometimes, though, the fun and the company of camping is it's own objective, and for me anyways, the mountain was just an excuse.  Not seeing it, gives me an excuse to go back and try out that Sauna.

Oh, and I finally found my dog.  Too bad he is one of a kind and rather busy herding sheep right now.

  

Sunday Story: Altyn Emel National Park

Altyn Emel National park is a 4600 square kilometer park northeast of Almaty.  It lies north of the Ili River above the Kapchagay dam and reservoir.  The desertous park is famous for it's "singing sand-dune," for a tree that has been around for seven hundred years, and for the white mountains.

View Larger Map

Last weekend some friends and I took advantage of the long weekend to arrange a tour to the park.  Tours are quite easy to arrange with any tour guide and are becoming more affordable as park fees have been reduced to just under 1000 tg for both Foreigners and for locals, so our costs included a guide, a driver, one night's stay at the ranger's station (later changed to a hotel), and food.

We drove North through poppy dotted fields and emerald sloped gorges, past the flashy casinos and blue waters of the Kapchagay reservoir before turning east toward the park.  We finally arrived at the small village of Basshy, found our hotel and the ranger who was to guide us through the park (all visitors must be accompanied by a park ranger/guide).

After a quick lunch, we were off again, into the park.  Once the paved part of the road turned to dirt, we picked up the pace, turning into two clouds of dust racing across the sage green plain. It would seem that freshly grated dirt is far easier to navigate than the pot-hole ridden pavement we had been on since Kapchagay.

It took us a little more than an hour to reach the dune.  The singing of the dune is unusual to hear without provocation.  In other words, if you wish to hear it sing you must first climb the 120+ meters of sand (plan to spend 30 to 40 minutes on this) and then charge down it, preferably in unison with as many people as you can find.

On the way back to the village, we stopped at the ancient Oshaktas Stela.  The origins and purpose of this stone construction are unclear.  Some legends say that they are part of Genghis Khan's encampment when he traveled through this area in 1219 (a decent write-up on the park is here).  Another hypothesis is that that they encircled a signal fire.



After our long car ride, we weren't ready to settle down for dinner, on returning to the village so we went for a walk through the tiny town.  Donkeys grazed serenely on the side of the dirt streets that were lined with homes and sheds made of mud and surrounded by sagging grey picket fences. The sky slowly turned pink by the light of a setting sun.

The people we met on our walk were friendly.  A farmer let my friend Dee climb into his tractor for a photo, and a passing wedding party invited us to their festivities. Although we politely declined the invitation, we partook of the party through the walls and windows of our hotel until well after 2am.


 8:00 on the 2nd morning of our weekend trip saw us racing back
along the dirt track leading into the park.  Our destination was the White mountains.  After almost two hours of speeding along the road, we arrived at the White Mountains.  The Mountains are really more like hills, and while they are white from one direction, they are also bright red and yellow in color.  We hiked for about forty minutes along a dry riverbed of cracked red mud that curled under the hot desert sun before we reached the white cliffs near the end of the canyon.

 
After lunching at the really old tree (the claim is around 700 years old) and feeding a couple of mosquitos, we began the long drive back to Almaty.

Friday Photos: Victory Day celebrations

May 9th, Victory Day, is the day that Kazakhstan and many other former Soviet countries celebrate the surrender of Nazi forces to Soviet forces in 1945.  Like Veterans'
Day in the United States, Victory Day is an occasion to recognize the contributions and sacrifices made by the men and women of the armed forces.


In Almaty the heart of the celebration is at Panfilov park.  The various memorials are covered in red roses by people paying their respects to the heroes of the war.  Street performers, ringed by onlookers, perform music and dance throughout the park. Among the performers, a youth choir dressed uniforms sings patriotic songs.
 

While the day is unmistakeably about the armed forces, the spirit in Panfilov Park is decidedly festive.  A little train weaves its way among the crowds and  picnickers spread their blankets and feasts on the grass among the trees.  Young people dress up in military uniforms and pose for photos with passersby and everywhere you look there are flowers, Flags, balloons, and orange and black striped ribbons.

Next Up: Singing Sand Dunes

Happy Spring from Almaty!

While a large portion of North America and parts of Europe were taking a battering from big snow storms this week, the city of Almaty has been in the full-on embrace of spring. Most people in Kazakhstan will tell you that spring begins on March first.  Most years this is probably just wishful thinking.  This year, however, March first saw a dramatic warming of the weather.  By March fifth, most of the snow was melted and sidewalks began to show through the thinning layers of ice and sand.  By the time the Nauriz Holiday began on the 20th, it was warm enough to venture outdoors in shorts and a t-shirt.

A valley just west of Almaty and the site of my first hike of the season

Spring is my favorite time of year in Almaty.  Spring brings clean air and warm sun-filled days.  Spring brings green grass and bright flowers.  Spring brings the return of hiking weather and day trips to the mountains and the steppe.  Spring brings people out of their grey buildings with carpets and blankets to lay across fences and beat with sticks.  It brings the sounds of children on the playgrounds of Gagarina park, and the frantic chirping of birds in the branches of barely budding trees.  Nothing beats the arrival of spring after a long white and grey winter.

Spring also brings me back to the blog that I have so sorely neglected these last two months.  I apologize to the seven of you who read every post and have been missing me (I'll try not to let it happen again).  So in the spirit of new beginnings and fresh starts:  Happy Friday, Happy Spring, Happy Easter everyone.

P.S.  I am thinking about collecting treasure maps but maybe not in this forum.  Let me know what you think.

Friday Photo(s): Embracing an Almaty Winter

Skiers at Shymbulak January, 2013

If you are in (or plan to be in) Almaty anytime between November and the middle of March, you might as well get used to one simple fact:  Almaty winters are snowy and cold.  You can beg, cry, and plea with the weather gods all you want but nothing can change this fact.  You have two choices when it comes to dealing with the cold: you can stay indoors for five months, or you can embrace the winter by finding and trying as many fun cold weather things as possible. 

A man cross-country Ski-ing in Gagarina Park, Almaty

During the course of an Almaty winter you can ice skate, sled, ski, snowboard, back-country ski/snowboard, snowshoe, cross country ski, Build snowmen, or practice sliding down the icy sidewalk on the bald soles of your shoes. If enjoy attending live sporting events, there is hockey, basketball, bandy, and the occasional ski-jumping, and ice fishing competitions.

Almaty HC January, 2013

Personally, I recommend ice skating at Medeo (common, how many people can say they've skated on some of the fastest ice in the world?!), catching a free Almaty HC hockey game (it's free and you can't beat free), and spending the day and perhaps a night at Shymbulak or Ak Bulak.  Whatever you decide to do, go prepared with warm clothes, warm drink, and a great attitude.  Bring on the winter!!


 P.S.  I tried snowboarding for the first time last weekend.  The pain was definitely worth it!

Shymbulak by night from the Gondola

Tidbit Tuesday: On buying books in magical bookstores

On the corner of Gogol and Furmanova, tucked in under an overhang and almost hiding beside a large pharmacy (more on that later) sits a little bookshop called Академкнига (academic books - established in 1950).  Now, don't get the wrong idea, Almaty has plenty of bookstores - we have the large, sterile, Barnes & Noble-esque establishments of Meloman and Booking, and the little tiny mall bookstores and even a couple of amazing Kazakh bookstores, but this shop is different.  This shop is something pretty special.

Inside, behind the unassuming, yellow facade are more books than you can possibly imagine! There are shelves from floor to ceiling filled with books.  There are books piled on carts that are taller than me.  There are books in bins and books stacked on top of the books in the bins. There are books stacked neatly on the floor and books piled somewhat sloppily in corners.  There are books in Russian, English, and Kazakh, and even a few books in Russian, English, and Kazakh all at the same time.  There books tucked in little nooks and crannies that you might not see if not for the help of the shop assistants who all bear an eery resemblance that librarian we all knew as children. In this magical little shop there are books everywhere space can be found to put a book.  In fact, it wouldn't surprise me at all to learn that the shop had somehow managed to defy the laws of physics and put a pile of books where there wasn't any place to put a book.  With all of these books there really isn't much room to move, and squeezing between piles of books can be an adventure. To be quite honest though, the expanse of universes contained within those books more than makes up for their cramped housing.  If you ever find yourself in Almaty (and you love books as much as I do) go find this shop and buy a book!

Incidentally - you know that pharmacy I mentioned earlier?  It is pretty spectacular too.  Two stories of everything you could ever need including (drum-roll please) the ever elusive Crest Toothpaste.  Granted, you will almost certainly pay and arm and most of a leg for such luxuries but sometimes you just want to brush with Crest.

Trip Log: Top 5 things to do in Istanbul (according to me)

The view of the Istanbul skyline from Gulhane Park

After ten days and countless excursions in the amazing city of Istanbul, I have compiled an Istanbul top 5 list of attractions no one visiting the city should miss.

1.  The Hagia Sophia.  I posted about this magnificent structure earlier and I cannot emphasize the power of this building to inspire.  Do not let the lines at the entrance or the fee to enter deter you.  The experience of drinking in the majesty of this building is more than worth everything!

2.  The Yerebatan Cistern: Built under the city as a source of drinking water during the Byzantine era, this subterranean palace is not to be missed.  Go early (we went right when they opened at 9am) to avoid lines and crowds.  This experience is every bit as awe inspiring as the grandest cathedral if you can see it when it is quiet. As a side note, there is another cistern open to the public (the Cistern of Philoxenos) but it is not as large or as awe inspiring as the Yerebatan Cistern.

3.  Istiklal street - if you are walking the length of Istiklal anyways, you might as well take a side trip to Galata tower and a ride on the Tunel Funicular (2nd oldest underground in the world) as neither of those take much time.  Istiklal on its own is worth visiting because it has so many hidden wonders - from a chocolate cafe which serves possibly the best hot chocolate in the world (I loved their hot pepper flavored chocolate) to magical book shops with fantastical staircases.  This street is definitely something that must be experienced.

Hot Chocolate from J'adore Chocolatier in a short alley off Istiklal

4.  A wander through the maze of old streets:  Many guide books recommend walking in Istanbul, and I cannot agree more.  The part of the city (on both sides of the Golden Horn) of interest to most visitors is small enough for an avid walker to get everywhere by foot.  If you don't have a lot of time to walk - simply walk down the hill from the Grand Bazaar to the Spice (Egyptian) Bazaar.  You can't go too far wrong and you will see plenty of tiny and fun old alleyways.  With that route you will get to visit both of the famous bazaars and as an added bonus it takes less time than any other form of transportation!

another extraordinary Istanbul street

5.  As my final choice on the top 5 things to see/experience in Istanbul I have to choose enjoying the grounds and exhibits at Topkapi palace.  This was a tough choice as there are so many other amazing things to do: eat fish at the Galata bridge, wonder at the beauty of the Blue Mosque or the extravagance of the Dolmabahce palace, haggle with a carpet salesman in the Grand Bazaar while sipping apple tea, catch a whirling Dervish Sema, take a tour through history at the Archaeological Museum, or enjoy a lazy day on a Bosphorus Ferry.  While Topkapi, like many of the other sights in the old part of Istanbul can get very crowded, the grounds are large enough that you can find a quiet place away from the crowds to sit and enjoy the same beauty that was created for the Sultans.  There is no tour guide and no prescribed path (unlike Dolmabahce) so you can enjoy the experience at your own pace and according to your own tastes.

For anyone visiting the city during the winter months, have no fear this city is worth it even if it is cold and snowing.  Happy travels!