The final part of our trip to the UK was in Scotland and mostly in Edinburgh. On Tuesday we traveled from Penrith station in the Lake district up to Ediburgh. The train was only three cars long, and this being the middle of "the Festival" (The Edinburgh Fringe Festival along with several others), the train was standing room only. I passed the trip along with seven other people and at least ten suitcases standing by the doors. Just when I thought no one would even think about trying to get on at our door, a family with a young mother, her seven or eight year old daughter, a large suitcase, and a stroller with an infant climbed in as the rest of us frantically tried to rearrange the suitcases that filled the area in order to accommodate them.
Edinburgh is an inspiring city. For me, the fun is walking and exploring the old streets lined with centuries old brown and grey stone buildings perforated with tiny Wynds, Closes, and Courts - tiny pasages that connect streets and lead to gardens. The small museums are also fun, the Writers' Museum (in Lady Stairs Close) with it's narrow spiral staircase and second floor balcony and displays on Scott, Burns, and Robert Louis Stevenson was probably my favorite place in the city.
Tuesday night we attended the Scottish National Royal Military Tattoo, a display of music and culture outside the castle. While occaisionally so cheesy it was groan worthy, the technical and musical displays were amazing. Groups from New Zealand, Korea, Mexico, and Mongolia performed along with the Royal Scottish Pipes and military band.
The Highlands
Wednesday we took a monster bus trip through the highlands. We spent more than twelve hours on a coach bus listening the the Scottish tales of our bus driver, Peter, who never mentioned Mary Queen of Scots without the phrase "Our Tragic Queen" and told tales of the McGregors - Children of the Mist, and of the Massacre of the Glencoe MacDonalds (as we drove through Glencoe). We got off at Loch Ness to explore the ruins of the Urquhart Castle on the shores of Loch Ness and to ride across the Loch to meet the bus again at Inverness.Thursday and Friday I spent in Edinburgh, exploring the city and partaking in little parts of the Free Fringe. The Fringe Festival and the Free Fringe bring thousands of actors, comedians and musicians into town, and for a donation (or not) you can buy a beer at almost any old city pub and catch a comedy act at almost any time of the day. Street acts fill High Street and Grassmarket, some of them are high school or college vocal ensembles in Scotland to perform at the Fringe, others are comedians cutting their teeth. One balloon sculptor would throw a rubber chicken at people who walked away from his act. An australian comedian and unicycle rider would introduce passersby as his "Father," ("that's not mum, dad"), agent, ex-wife ("it's over, honey") and drug dealer. He had the crowd in stitches as he waved at every passing tourist bus and invited participation from the crowd and those who walked by - all of this before he got on his 9 foot unicycle and juggled fire.
Wednesday we took the train over to St. Andrews, to see the Golf Course and the beach from Chariots of Fire fame (yup, that's pretty much the only reason we went). While there, we also enjoyed the sights and delicious tastes of a summer fair complete with amusement rides, fish and chips, and Ice Cream.
Now we resume our trip, returning to london by train (this time not overbooked).
P.S. When in Edinburgh, beware of bedbugs
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